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I'm sure you remember S’s new jumper from my previous post last week. If you haven't seen it yet, it was a really cute project that I wanted to share with all of you. I had promised to walk you through the process of adding a lining and facing to the jumper, and today I’m finally getting around to sharing this simple tutorial.
The idea behind adding a lining and facing to a garment like this jumper is to provide structure and prevent any raw edges from showing. It's not absolutely necessary for every project, but I personally find it adds a professional touch. For S’s jumper, I decided to include a facing along the hem as well as the neckline for added stability and a cleaner finish.
To start off, I used my existing facing patterns, which were drafted specifically for this jumper. If you're creating your own facing patterns, there are plenty of resources available, such as the Building Block Dress book, which provides detailed instructions. Once I had my facings ready, I fused interfacing onto them to add stiffness and then added a row of basting stitches about ½ inch from the curved inner edges. These stitches served as guides for pressing the edges of the facings towards the wrong side. (P.S. I didn’t initially plan to write this tutorial, so these photos were taken in a hurry on our Spanish tile floor.)
Next, I used the original skirt and bodice pattern pieces to cut out the lining for both the front and back bodice, as well as the front and back skirt pieces. Then came the fun part—attaching the facings. I placed each facing piece on top of the right side of the corresponding lining piece, aligning the outer edges, and pinned them securely in place. Using a regular sewing machine, I edgestitched the facings to the lining to keep everything in place. While a walking foot might help if your fabric is particularly slippery, I found that a few well-placed pins worked just fine, even with the bulkier fabric of my facings.
After edgestitching the innermost folded edges, I flipped the lining over and trimmed away the excess fabric from the lining, using the ½ inch seam allowance of the facings as a guideline. This step ensures that the lining fits snugly and neatly within the garment.
Now that the facings are attached to the lining, you can continue with the rest of the construction process. It’s a straightforward method that saves time compared to the traditional approach of drafting a separate lining pattern and dealing with opposing curves. Not only does this method simplify things, but it also results in a clean finish on the inside of the garment.
For reference, here’s how the same technique looks when applied to the neckline facing of S’s jumper. As you can see, the only noticeable difference between this method and the conventional one is the row of edgestitching visible on the inside of each facing. Otherwise, the end result is virtually indistinguishable!
I’ve used this technique successfully on other projects too, including my altered velvet Bistro Dress. It’s versatile enough to work with various sewing patterns, and I hope you’ll find it helpful in your own sewing endeavors.
So there you have it—a quick and easy way to add a lining and facing to your garments without the hassle of complex pattern adjustments. Give it a try next time you’re working on a project, and let me know how it goes!
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