Yarn and Line Lecture 2

Second quarter Yarn and thread

1. Different styles of wool :

Textile fibers must be spun into yarns or threads before they can be used to make a wide range of textiles . The wool has the following main styles :

. A monofilament (Monofilament): is infinitely long individual filaments, as a single optical fiber, a single nylon.

B tow ( Tow ) A lot of long monofilaments are bundled together , but they have not been smashed , and are more common like chemical fibers , such as .300D 100% Rayon

C. Yarn ( Spu yam, Staple yam ) refers to a fine fiber spun from a fiber , usually spun from a fiber of 1 cm or more , such as 1/15 70% Angora 30% Nylon.

D. fight yarn (Twisted yam);. With two or more strands twisted combined yarn or filaments formed as 2/30 100% Viscose,

2/32 100% High Twist Cotton and so on.

E also has some special styles of wool , such as Cold beads (Boule),, pile yarn (chenille Chenille), insect larvae wool (Mole yarn), wool tape (Tape yarn), floral wool (Fancy yarn), hair agglomerator (Slub yarn) and the like.

To fight the above-mentioned twisted yarn, the degree of twist is called twist (of Twist), refers to the average number of twist per unit length of the twist, the higher the twist within a certain range, the greater the strength of the line.

2. Representation of the thickness of the yarn : The method for quantifying the thickness of the yarn has two methods : fixed length and quantitative :

A. Significance fixed-length unit is manufactured by weight per unit length of yarn or thread, for example, a number of bits (TEX) represented by: 1 kilometer per gram wool number (g / km), such as: 5 tex (1 kilometer per 5 g wool); b denier (denier) represented by: wool per 9000 meters of length of the number of grams (g / 9000m), such as 300D (wool per 9000 meters of 300 grams), a multi-denier reeling (such as nylon, silk light), the larger denier or number of bits, the more coarse yarns.

B. Significance of quantitative metric units; length of yarn or thread unit weight, as we used the number (COUNTS) branch, but distinct count metric and imperial of: metric count (Metric Counts) branched meaning: 1 kg per the yarns have the number of kilometers (km / kg), as represented by 1/15 method (single-stranded 15), 2/30 (Unit 2 are represented by a twisted yarn 30 into line 30 shares read as 2 . branch), 1/15 with a thickness of 2/30 is actually quite a number of British (English Counts) support meaning: wool per pound how many 840 yards (code for the British unit of length) [(840yd) / b ], that is , 1 inch support = 840yd / b, 5 inch support = 5X840yd / b = 4200yd / b; representation method such as 32 / 2 ( representing the line of twisted yarn of 32 strands of 2 strands , read as 32 pairs of double ). Whether it is metric or imperial , the larger the count, the finer the yarn

The exchange relationship between the above units is as follows :

1 metric branch = 1.7 inch branch ; 1tex = 1000 metric branch ; 1D = 9000 metric branch ; 1 inch branch = 0.59 metric branch

※ ※ Please pay special attention to the difference between the metric system and the English system.

3 . Variety of wool yarn :

Mentioned for the first plurality of fibers woven, even if the fiber is subjected to different components of the same sort, different yarn properties can be obtained, and the fact that a certain percentage of components blended together (Blended) A variety of wool yarns , making the variety of wool yarns rich and varied. Here are some common wool materials for your reference :

P 21/2 100% Carded cotton wool (not fine cotton 21/2) 20/2 100% Combed cotton fine cotton (not 20/2 cotton P)

32/2 100% Combed cotton   32/2 100%High Twisted Cotton

40/2 100% Mercerized cotton mercerized cotton 1/2.5 100% cotton (tape yarn) cotton belt hair

21/2 55% Ramie 45% Cotton Cotton and Blend 1/14 60% Linen 40% Cotton

2/30 100% Merino Wool Merino wool 2/48 100% Extra Fine Merino Wool Merino wool High

2/48 100% Merino wool (Anti-pilling) anti -pilling merino wool

1/16 100% Lambswool lamb wool 2/9 100% Soft wool soft wool

2/9 100% Shetland wool Shetland wool 2/11 100% Alpaca alpaca (alpaca wool)

2/26 100% Cashmere Cashmere ( Chillet )   2/60 100% Spun Silk Silk

2/17 100%Silk 1/15 70%Lambswool 20%Angora10%Nylon

1/15 70% Angora 30% Nylon 300D 100% Rayon filament ( other often 150D)

2/30 100% (High twisted) Viscose silk (Rayon and Viscose refer to the same composition , but Rayon is American spelling , Viscose is English spelling )

2/30 100% Dull Rayon matte 120DX2 100% (Bright) Viscose ( both are 120D filaments , ie 240D)

2/28 100% Acrylic Artificial Hair 1/1.8 100% Polyester Baolilong

1/10 100% Nylon Nylon 70D 100% Nylon

2/28 50%    Acrylic 50%Wool 2/50 60% Rayon 40%Cotton

metal wire

The metal wire we refer to usually refers to Lurex. Lurex is the trade name for a metal wire produced by a US company. Their production methods are: a polyester film to make an intermediate layer (Polyester film), a full upper and lower surfaces are sprayed in a vacuum vaporized metal such as aluminum (Vaporized aluminum), and before putting the colored binder, plus a layer of transparent Polyester , also known as fiber acetate, and finally cut into filaments . Metal wire bleaching is the same as wool , suitable for hydrogen peroxide , dyeing conditions at a temperature of 77 degrees , within 90 minutes , PH value of 7.5 is appropriate , but cloth The bulk dye will make the wire have spots . The metal wire Lurex we used is obtained by blending the polyester film obtained by the above method with VISCOSE , such as : 110D 100%Lurex ( its composition is 66) %Viscose 34% Metallic yarn (Polyester)

※※ Pulling frame

We use Lycra immature hair is transparent core (the CORE) line, an outer nylon wrapped, the core wire is elastic (Elastic) Elastic is also called rubber fibers, wool Elastic cause the reverse process elastic weakened, and elastic very easily broken, so try to avoid the hair down. Lycra component Nylon / Lycra, which "Lycra" for the US company DuPont trade name for an elastic fiber, the generic name Spandex. Spandex containing at least 85% poly Wulan Tan (Polyurethane), Spandex fiber by repeated washing and sunlight or oxide etch may be grayed out, the other can damage the oxidant Spandex, so to avoid the use of hypochlorite bleaching base, can be changed used sodium borate (sodium perborate). nylon wool and stained with the same. Lycra many models, such as Lycra .2070 Lycra most common series 2070 system can be divided into a high level by the resilient elastic (high power) shot (Middle power), low elastic (Low power)

High-elastic N2070 Lycra (77D (1/116) 92% Polyamide (Nylon) 8% Lycra (Elastane))

Shot WL2070 Lycra (83D (1/109) 85 % Nylon 15% Lycra)

Low- elastic L2070 Lycra (84D (1/107) 84% Nylon 16% Lycra)

4. The color of the wool :

A: Flower hair (Melange yam): uniformly mixed by several different colors or shades with spun fiber yarn such wool fibers are loose wool dyeing.

B: Net color hair : The fiber of the yarn is a single color. The fibers of such yarns may be loosely dyed; they may also be Yarn dyes , such as the one-in-one dye (Cone dye).

C: color matching hair : a line made of two or more yarns of different colors .

D: wool other color patterns, such as a section of wool a dark color, some other light color.

5. English-Chinese comparison of other terms related to wool..

Acetate acid fiber Fatty acids, fiber Aino (Angora / Cashmere) Giordano (rabbit / cashmere) Alpaca Alpaca Aristocrats soft Shetland wool Shenandoah Asian city UK British Wool Wool Cotton Slub end grain cotton

Gary Caledonia Wool Wool Cotton Cord cotton rope

Daino (Angora / Cashmere) Giordano (rabbit / cashmere) Dainotinto (Angora / Cashmere) Dan Fantino

Extra fine grade Geelong Lambswool Art Long lamb wool Metallic / Lurex yarn wire Micro Fiber Polyamide = Nylon microfibre polyethylene amine urethane Polyurethane

Rayon Tape ribbon optical Smiling yarn Crepe yarn Super Fine Super

Supima Cotton Snow Cotton Super Soft Extra Soft Shetland Selangor Sea Island Cotton

Marl cotton blending Teviot Wool Wool Viscose day quasi-twist silk Washable wool washable wool

Woollen wool spinning wool Worsted Lambswool comb sheep hair Yarn count wool count

Yarn ends wool Yarn twist number of twist Cotton Tape with cotton wool

Jacquard Fabric

3D Jacquard Fabric,Knitting Jacquard Fabric,Polyester Upholstery Jacquard Fabric,Recycled Polyester Jacquard Fabric

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